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The Jubilee Trail – Cranborne to Pentridge Hill … Walk Number Two

The days seem to go so quickly that I find to hard to believe that a month has passed since I took my first steps along the Jubilee Trail. You can read about Walk One here.

I decided for my second planned walk that I would effectively continue where I left off, albeit that I would be starting in Cranborne, walking out to Pentridge Hill and returning along the Hardy Way back to the village – a distance of 5.2 miles. I am fully aware that in walking terms this isn’t very far but as I mentioned in the first post I want to take time to absorb and appreciate the landscape as well as finding compositions and releasing the shutter to record what I see.

In many ways these posts, and there will be 32 in total, are as much a travelogue and as they are a photographic experience. Given I have only just completed the second walk it may well take me a year or more to finish the 90 mile trail!

I left the village of Cranborne at precisely 10 o’clock just as the church bells chimed on the hour, and for a short time they drowned out the bird song coming from the trees around me. The sun shone which was in stark contrast to the previous day which had been wet. After all the rain, the gravel path made for good walking but I anticipated there would be muddy sections somewhere along the route.

I soon reached Manor Farm and couldn’t help but notice the signage for The Boot and Bucket Cheese Company. I am a big fan of cheese and I had not come across this artisan food-maker before, so I made a mental note to go on their website when I returned home. I knew it wouldn’t be very long before one or two of their products would be on a plate with complementary biscuits and a glass of red wine.

I passed Manor Farm and the gravel track gave way to tarmac. A surprisingly well maintained road given it only served Cranborne Farm ahead. Two people appeared in front of me, grey hair, one stick and the ubiquitous black labrador. I soon overtook them, said good morning as I did so, and continued along the trail. Pasture land lay to my left, a post and wire fence preventing the curious cattle escaping, telegraph poles as far as my eye could see and a flock of maybe seven or eight white wagtails for company.

Heading north west the mid morning sun was directly behind me and my long shadow led the way. I turned to see if I was still being followed but the two dog walkers must have turned around, continued putting the world to rights, as they made there was back to Cranborne.

After 35 minutes and 1.3 miles, I turned right at Cranborne farm, still on the Jubilee Trail, and began a gentle ascent. I had chosen another beautiful, dry autumnal day and the temperature was rising. I had packed a waterproof jacket, but I was convinced it wouldn’t be required. In fact it wasn’t long before my gilet joined the waterproof in my backpack and I was down to a single layer. Neither saw the light of day until the end of the walk. I couldn’t have wished for better conditions.

Leaving the farm behind me, tarmac had been replaced by a typical farm track, with tractor ruts either side of a wet grass central reservation. Lined by hedges which are great for wildlife but they did mean my view of the surrounding countryside was inhibited. Although there were some muddy sections, the ground was surprisingly good given how wet it had been recently. I felt for all arable farmers who must have had a very difficult time bringing in the harvest and would now be struggling to plough and cultivate the land ready for seed drilling and next year’s crop.

Every so often, the sun would give advanced notice of a gap in the hedgerow and the hidden landscape would be revealed. At one point I could see Penbury Knoll, which I had visited in ‘Walk One’ although I wouldn’t be going quite that far today. This route would take me to the lower slopes of Pentridge Hill where I would turn round and head back to Cranborne. The path was nearly all uphill from now on. The good news is that it would be all downhill on the way back.

Although I had yet to see or hear any pheasants, it was evident that sections of the farmland would be used for game shooting. Strips of land had been left for cover and there were many pheasant feeders dotted around the fields. Game shooting divides opinion but for those in favour it does generate another income stream for landowners and gamekeepers.

I arrived at my next turning point. It was marked on the map as Jack’s Hedge Corner. I enjoyed a good view of the countryside and then realised from looking at the map that I was looking down on Toby‘s Bottom. ‘Oooh Matron’ I said to myself, which will only make sense to those of you who are familiar with Kenneth Williams and the ‘Carry On’ films of the 1960’s and 70’s. Joking aside these are names which are surely linked to people from the past, in particular Jack as there were hedges in all directions.

I stopped to take a few pictures and as I made my way up the hill I thought I could hear voices. My hearing isn’t perfect but the voices got louder and it wasn’t long before I knew that my ears hadn’t been deceiving me, as a group of retired ramblers came into view. A few moments earlier I had only been thinking how this had felt like a quiet place of solitude negating any need to go to places like Scotland and the mountains. I could escape people here in my home county. The ramblers had broken the silence of nature and place, and selfishly I hoped they would be continuing their walk along a different path. I pressed on to put some distance between me and them. I make no apology but I prefer to be on my own.

The slopes of Pentridge Hill lay ahead and a buzzard flew over Blackbush Down. As it turned, the underside of its wings were caught in sunlight, revealing the beautiful pattern of its feathers. The distinctive mewing and screeching on the wing echoes the sound of a cat like call. It circled out of view, its cry falling away in volume as it did so.

Apart from the bird of prey calling there were no more voices to be heard; I assumed they must have turned right at Jack’s Hedge Corner and I rambled off in the opposite direction.

After an hour and 35 minutes I had covered 2.9 miles, and had arrived at the point which I had left the Jubilee Trail a few weeks ago. It was time to turn round and retrace my steps taking in the view across Cranborne Chase. Before doing so I reached into my bag for a drink and half a sandwich, something to refresh me. It was only 11.40am so too early for lunch and I envisaged having the rest back in the village followed by a flat white and maybe a slice of cake at the Cranborne Garden Centre by way of a treat.

I soon arrived back at Jack’s Hedge Corner. By then the sun had moved round and was now illuminating the gate post which made for a much better composition.

This was also the junction to continue straight ahead and follow Hardy’s Way back to Cranborne. ‘Jack’ had without question been very active as the path was lined by tall hedges on both sides of the track and for long sections any view was completely obscured. However I was grateful the sun was still shining, but in some respects I was now looking forward to the end of the walk.

As I descended I had rather hoped there might be a view of the village, perhaps even the church tower but it was not be. Thinking the tall hedgerow would be a permanent fixture for the rest of the walk I was pleased when I came across a pair of double gates to my right and the countryside I had been missing for the past half a mile or so suddenly came into view. I stopped, rested my hiking stick against the gate and admired the scenery. I heard the buzzard again but this time it wasn’t visible, but there was no mistaking its call.

It was at this point that I gave some thought to the camera equipment I had in my bag. My Leica SL and 50mm Summilux lens was all I had used. I had three other prime lenses so why was I carrying all of them? I guess there will be times when I will resort to using them but for the majority of images 50mm is all I need. It is though something to consider for future walks.

The bridleway returned to tarmac once again so I knew the village and the end of the walk couldn’t be that far away. I reached a road and on the corner a finger post confirmed what I already knew; the car would be in sight very shortly and lunch would be my reward.

It’s just before 1 o’clock and I’m back where I started; 5.4 miles according to the App on my iPhone. Before heading to the cafe there was one more place to visit – the church of St Mary and St Bartholomew. There were only a few spaces to park outside the church and a ‘no parking’ cone immediately by the church gate reduced the number of options. A small pick up took up another space with its driver sitting behind the wheel.

I approached the church but unfortunately it was closed for the day. A notice on the door informed me that a funeral was due to take place. This made sense of the parking cone and I could only conclude the grave digger was waiting to complete his work after the service had finished.

As I drove to the cafe the vicar was walking to the church with a small black leather case in his hand. There were two mourners in traditional dark attire at the garden centre filling time over a drink and I suspect retelling tales of the dearly departed. A sombre end to the day but a reminder how grateful I am to be alive, to walk, to see and to hear the beauty of God’s creation which I had witnessed that morning.

I left the garden centre at 2pm and heard the church bells chime again.

Remembering Norman Ackroyd CBE RA … 1938-2024

I was very saddened to hear that the wonderful and well renowned artist and printmaker Norman Ackroyd had passed away at the age of 86 on the 16th September 2024. His beautiful and atmospheric aquatint etchings are in art collections around the world.

I first discovered his works of art many years ago and had the good fortune to both meet him and listen to a talk he gave on printmaking at Pallant House Gallery in Chichester back in January 2019. It was a most inspiring evening as he spoke about not only his approach to his art, but also the many places he loves and had visited around the shores of Great Britain and Ireland. In particular he told the audience about the west coast of Scotland, including some of the most remote islands including St Kilda, the Treshnish Isles, and Muckle Flugga, which is often named as the most northern tip of the British Isles on Shetland in Scotland, to name but a few.

Some years before that evening I had purchased a very fine book of his work titled ‘A Line in the Water’. The book also included some evocative poems by Douglas Dunn OBE. On the inside of the dust jacket it reads and I quote –

‘In his almost obsessive exploration of the farthest reaches of the British Isles, Norman Ackroyd captures the meeting of land and sea in atmospheric aquatint. His work and Dunn’s complement each other in a memorable fusion of word and image that attests to the power of the place and reflects the extraordinary diversity of Britain’s littoral margins.’

On meeting him after the talk he very kindly agreed to sign this book for me. It was an evening I shall never forget and a book I will never part with.

I love Ackroyd’s work. His unequaled technique and the places he depicts are everything I could ask from a landscape artist. He has inspired me in my own photographic work and whilst I doubt I will ever visit the far flung places he has been to, I feel that through his art he has taken me there emotionally and for that I shall always be grateful.

There have been many fine obituaries in the press over the past couple of weeks, so I do not intend to repeat what you can read online but I have included some videos below which you may care to watch.

The first two are from the series – ‘What do artists do all day?’ which were first broadcast in 2013. The third video is a talk when in the space of several minutes he recites the names of the places he has etched and painted in over four decades. Inspirational.

And finally I have included one of my own photographs looking east down Loch Sunart in Scotland, captured when sailing on the ferry from Tobermory on the Isle of Mull to Kilchoan on the Ardnamurchan peninsular in October 2022.

Thank you Norman Ackroyd and may you Rest in Peace.

Castle Hill Gardens ….. a nod to Michael Kenna perhaps?

I always remember a famous photographer (unfortunately I can’t remember who it was) saying –

‘Don’t buy more gear, buy more books by other photographers’.

I only have to look at my shelves and I clearly took this this advice to heart as I have quite a collection of photobooks, mainly by black and white photographers, and I very much enjoy leafing through them from cover to cover, looking and learning from the images on the pages.

Whether consciously or subconsciously it is my view that all photographers and artists are influenced by the work of others. To be in bubble and to develop your own personal style without ever have been affected by their art or imagery is nigh on an impossibility. If you are a creator then it is only natural that should be interested in the work of other creators. Whether you admire their work or not, the very act of looking at the photographs of well known photographers helps define the direction of your own style, and furthers your understanding and enjoyment of this art form.

In the early days of my photography I was akin to a sponge, soaking up ideas, techniques and learning for myself what I did and didn’t like about other photographer’s work. I have written before about the very distinctive imagery of Michael Kenna, who I have always admired although I haven’t looked through my books of his photographs for quite a long time.

Which brings me to this set of photographs all captured at Castle Hill Gardens on a recent stay in Devon. My wife and I stumbled by chance on this wonderful home and superb parkland gardens. From the moment I got out of the car, and I saw the grounds, in particular the statuary, it instantly reminded me of some photographs by Michael Kenna which I had seen in the past. I knew immediately the approach I would take to the composition and how I would process the images I wanted to make.

The square format, the shallow depth of field, the split tone sepia like tint and the addition of a little film like grain would all feature. We walked around the gardens and I regularly dived off in a different direction to seek out some compositions. Before processing the files I made a deliberate choice not to reach for the Kenna books, so that the results would be my own even though I fully admit to being heavily influenced by the memory of Michael Kenna’s interpretation of similar subjects.

Photographer or not Castle Hill Gardens are well worth a visit. We were there in September, loved the walk around the gardens and we were told that Spring is a particularly special time of year to visit. The Palladian style Castle Hill house has been the home of the Fortescue family since 1684 and the current custodians are the 17th generation to live on the estate. The estate extends to 5,100 acres, including the 50 acres of gardens surrounded by Grade 1 Listed Parkland.

I hope you enjoyed this collection of photographs even if they do bear a passing resemblance to the work of Michael Kenna – to be honest I would be very flattered if you thought this was the case.

You might also be interested to read this entry about an interview with Michael Kenna which I posted back in 2018.

East Chaldon, Dorset …… another Sunday morning stroll

There is something to be said for getting out a map and without spending too much time choosing a location which you haven’t visited before. To enjoy the change, explore new paths never knowing what you might come across.

I did this recently and I intend to repeat the experience on many future occasions. Irrespective of the weather and length of walk there are always images to be made.

I have included a small selection of photographs taken recently on a Sunday morning stroll to the South East of East Chaldon village in Dorset, also known as Chaldon Herring. With more time this walk could easily be extended to include a section of the South West Coast path to visit either Durdle Door or Ringstead Bay.

From Leica to Fujifilm and now back to Leica …. Why?

A couple of years ago I published a post titled ‘Switching from Leica to Fujifilm….well not exactly’. In summary I explained how I had decided to move away from a Leica camera body in favour of Fujifilm, albeit that I retained three Leica M lenses, so that I could continue to use them with a lens adapter on Fujifilm X series cameras. I won’t repeat the content of that post here, but do click on the link above if you would like to understand the background before reading the rest of this entry.

*Fujifilm XT3 with 10-24mm wide angle zoom lens*

Back to the current day. Why have I reverted back to Leica? What prompted me to do so and what equipment do I now use? I hope my answers to these questions will be of interest to you and may even assist you when you are choosing your own photographic gear.

When I invested in a Fujifilm XT3, I had anticipated that I would be able to enjoy the best of all worlds. I bought some zoom lenses to cover a wide range of focal lengths (10 – 24mm f4, 16 – 80mm f4 and 55 – 200mm f3.5 to f4.8). The Fuji has an APSC cropped sensor, so this gave me the equivalent range of 15mm to 300mm based on a 35mm full frame sensor. It would cover every eventually or so I thought. I still had my Leica M glass of course (35mm f1.4, 50mm f1.4 and 90mm f2.4) which on the XT3 gave me three fast prime lenses with focal lengths of approximately 52mm, 75mm and 135mm (in 35mm terms). What more could I want? Well for starters a very large camera bag and a strong back if I was to carry all of this gear around at the same time, however this was only the beginning of my deliberations.

Knowing I couldn’t practically or physically take everything on a photo outing I had to make certain decisions at home. Zoom lenses, or just the primes, or a combination and if so which ones? The answer would always come back to what I was hoping to see and potentially photograph. Sometimes I would have a good idea which made the selection process easier, but on other occasions the choice was less straightforward.

When I did choose the prime lenses I soon discovered the drawbacks. Firstly I didn’t own a wide angle M lens. I had traded in a Zeiss 18mm M lens in favour of the Fuji 10 – 24. Even if I had kept it the 18mm would only be the equivalent of a 27mm field of view with the crop sensor. Secondly none of the Fuji zoom lenses were that fast for low light conditions nor would they give me a shallow depth of field. Don’t get me wrong they are excellent lenses but like any zoom lens they have their limitations as to how they can used. Thirdly the shallow depth of field on a crop sensor does not behave in the the same way as it would on a full frame sensor. I had also grown accustomed to taking advantage of the depth of field scale on the M lenses. I have always enjoyed manual focusing, they give me a sense of complete control and if I wanted to resort to setting the aperture and lens to cover a certain focal range I could do so very easily and I would rely upon the result. This was no longer true when paired with the XT3 crop sensor. Some of the magic had gone from using the superlative M lenses.

*50mm lens showing the depth of field scale.*

By now you can probably begin to sense my growing frustration. The final nail in the coffin came when I began considering the true nature of my photography. What are my favoured genres and subjects. More importantly what images am I trying to make? Were these aspects of my photography hindered by my camera equipment and if so what changes were desirable?

The more I thought about this the natural conclusion soon became clear. The answer was of course a resounding yes, I was being held back. I was no longer able to make the images I really wanted. Take for example my church photography. To evoke the feelings I am after in a photograph I often use the lens wide open at say f1.4 to give me a shallow depth of field or soft background. The effect can be quite subtle as in the picture below, but it’s there and an important element of the image as far as I am concerned. Shooting wide open not only gives me the ‘look’ I want but it also allows me the freedom to work hand held without having to ramp up the ISO. I don’t have to rely on a tripod, which can be cumbersome and awkward in the confines of a small church.

My other love is the great outdoors whether that be a landscape, old farm buildings or a dramatic scene but I am not one to favour the type of picture captured by an extreme wide angle lens, nor a long telephoto lens for that matter.

The picture below was a spontaneous capture of an atmospheric scene which soon passed as the wind got up and the reflections in the water disappeared.

In summary then, if your camera equipment is hampering your style and you are no longer truly enjoying using the equipment you have, then it may be time to ask yourself a number of questions – What should I do about it? What can I change to improve both process and outcome? Above all what images do I want to make? Affordability will of course be a consideration and I recognise I am fortunate when it comes to setting a budget.

*Leica SL2-S with 50mm F1.4 Summilux lens*
*(I put black tape over the Leica badge – it’s more discreet)*

As I said earlier I have now reverted back to Leica as my main camera of choice but which model? Towards the end of last year I purchased a Leica SL2-S along with another Leica M Lens – the Super Elmar 21mm f3.4. I had previously owned the original SL Type 601, but the SL2-S is an altogether better camera not least because it now has in body image stabilisation. It is faster in use and whilst the sensor is still only 24mp (a sweet spot as far as am concerned), noise control at high ISOs is excellent. In some ways I regret parting with the first SL, but I have learnt from the experience. When compared to the Fuji XT3 I prefer the way the SL2-S handles. It fits my hands perfectly. The customisation of the function buttons gives me easy access to make quick changes when necessary and the menu in my opinion is less complicated to use than on the Fuji. Oh and I mustn’t forget to mention the superb EVF which makes manual focusing an absolute breeze. Combined with the Leica M glass the resultant DNG image files are excellent and are very good to post process. All in all it is a joy to use.

*From left to right 21mm, 35mm, 50mm and 90mm.*

In conclusion my ‘go to’ equipment is now the Leica SL2-S camera body paired with the 21mm, 35mm, 50mm and 90mm primes. I guess I am a purist at heart and trying to mix a Fuji camera body with Leica glass was never going to work, well not for me anyway. I truly love prime lenses and the artistic choices they give me, not to mention the joy I experience every time I use them. They suit my style of photography, they are like old friends. When I tried to change the relationship I had with them they reacted accordingly!

Not only has my passion returned for the equipment I possess, but I no longer have to use a large camera bag. The beauty of the M lenses is their compact size. Yes they are quite heavy (as is the camera itself) but I can easily carry the camera and a lens (normally the nifty fifty) with one or more of the other three lenses and a few accessories in a shoulder bag. On longer walks I will still use a camera back pack, but I now have more room for refreshments, extra clothing etc. It works well and most definitely suits my needs. I don’t have tricky decisions to make concerning which lenses to take out with me.

I accept that with this setup I don’t have access to an extreme wide angle or the reach of a long telephoto but as I have already explained my eye doesn’t see the world in that way. Changing lenses happens more frequently but that is no bad thing, it slows me down and makes me think more about compositional choices. Fortunately these four lenses all share the same filter thread – 46mm – which also makes my life easier when using filters etc.

The chances of me being able to make images that please me have improved and even if I don’t capture anything worthwhile then I will have enjoyed the process anyway.

In a nutshell isn’t that what being a photographer is all about?